The Médoc AOP covers the entire wine-producing left bank of the Gironde Estuary, a 50-mile stretch northward from the city of Bordeaux. The Médoc AOP encompasses the Haut-Médoc AOP and the more prestigious communal appellations. While the term Médoc is often used to indicate left bank wines in general, the actual appellation is typically used by those châteaux who do not qualify for a more precise appellation; namely, those located in the marshy region north of St-Estèphe. In this northern region (the Bas-Médoc) vineyards are sparser and intermingled with forest, pasture and mixed agriculture. Drainage channels (jalles) criss-cross the low-lying, remote landscape and prevent the Médoc from reverting to swampland. Absent are the conspicuously grand châteaux of the Haut-Médoc, replaced by more modest farmhouses and estates. The Médoc is overwhelmingly devoted to red wine production: approximately 123 acres in the entire appellation are planted with white grapes. AOP wines must be red. Médoc AOP wines are often at their best after five years, but do not have the longevity or concentration of wines from further south. Merlot is grown in a higher proportion here than in the Haut-Médoc, as it performs more reliably in the waterlogged, clay-heavy soils of the Bas-Médoc. In warmer vintages, these wines can show good value and offer pleasant but simple fruit and earth flavors. They usually lack a new oak component, a financial concession for châteaux and co-operatives producing inexpensive bottles.
The Haut-Médoc AOP covers a narrow corridor of land on the left bank of the Gironde in the southern Médoc. In the Haut-Médoc, the best vineyards are characterized by well-drained gravelly soils, perfectly suited to the cultivation of Cabernet Sauvignon. The Dutch unearthed gravel mounds (croupes) during their drainage work in the 1600s, and the better châteaux are usually located upon these deeper banks of gravel, primarily located within the communes of Saint-Estèphe, Pauillac, St. Julien, Listrac-Médoc, Moulis-en-Médoc, and Margaux. Thus, the Haut-Médoc and its commune appellations are home to some of the world’s most distinguished, pedigreed producers of Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines, enshrined in the famous, enduring 1855 Classification of Bordeaux. Commissioned by Emperor Napoleon III and carried out by the region’s courtiers, this classification ranked the top properties of Bordeaux by price prior to international exposure at the Universal Exposition in Paris later that year. All of the properties classified for red wine—with the exception of Château Haut-Brion in Graves—were Médoc châteaux, categorized by price into first through fifth growths.
Unlike the grand cru vineyards of Burgundy, the properties of Bordeaux hold status rather than the land itself, so a vineyard may be classified or declassified as it changes ownership. The name of an estate holds the status. While proponents suggest, in self-fulfilling fashion, that a château’s standing accords its wines the appropriate pricing to continue operating at its level, many critics today argue that the 1855 Classification is outmoded, and that some châteaux perform over or (drastically) under their assigned station. Regardless, the politics and historical significance of the classification render it almost impervious to criticism and nearly immovable. The only significant change to this classification occurred in 1973: after years of tireless self-promotion, Baron Philippe de Rothschild saw a “monstrous injustice” corrected as Château Mouton-Rothschild was elevated from second growth to first, taking its place among the world’s most expensive wines.
Two additional, if less notable, designations mark châteaux of quality in Bordeaux: Cru Artisan and Cru Bourgeois. Cru Artisan, a designation that has been in use for nearly a century and a half, was formally recognized in 2002. From the 2005 vintage forward, 44 small producers throughout the Médoc’s 8 appellations have the right to use the designation, denoting their place as exceptional stewards of the land and craft of winemaking, without the financing or apparatus of large-scale operations. Cru Artisan estates must be smaller than 5 hectares; the list is reviewed every ten years. Cru Bourgeois, an embattled classification originally introduced in 1932, divided 444 properties into three categories: Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur, and Cru Bourgeois. The classification was not official until 2003, when only 247 châteaux retained their status. The resulting legal action nullified the entire classification. Cru Bourgeois was reinstated for the 2008 vintage, but the higher designations of Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel and Cru Bourgeois Supérieur were eliminated. In 2018 new legislation passed to reinstate the previously eliminated terms. Starting in 2018 châteaux may once again apply for Cru Bourgeois, Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, and Cru Bourgeois Supérieur. The terms will appear on labels in 2020. The classification will be reviewed every 5 years, with a new list appearing in 2020 and then 2025.
St-Estèphe AOP is the northernmost commune appellation in Haut-Médoc. The wines are sturdy and full-bodied reds with a slightly higher percentage of Merlot, due to a higher proportion of clay amongst the gravel. St-Estèphe does not contain any first growths, and it hosts only five classified growths overall. Château Cos d’Estournel, a “super-second” growth, is the most notable, making powerful wines in a polished modern style.
Pauillac AOP is considered classic claret and boasts three first growths: Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Mouton-Rothschild, and Château Latour. In Pauillac the gravel topsoil of the Haut-Médoc is at its deepest point, and the Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines are structured and long-lived. Lafite and Latour represent the pinnacle of Pauillac: Latour produces wines of brooding depth and concentration and Lafite emphasizes aromatics and elegance.
St-Julien AOP produces less wine than the other communes, but the quality is very good: approximately 80% of the AOP is cru classé wine. There are no first growths, but St-Julien has five second growths, including the “super-seconds” of Château Léoville Las Cases and Château Ducru-Beaucaillou. Both can produce wine on par with premier cru estates. St-Julien reds typically demonstrate an elegant style.
Listrac-Médoc AOP and Moulis-en-Médoc AOP are lesser appellations without classified growths, but can be the source of good value—especially in better vintages. Château Chasse-Spleen in Moulis is the most famous estate of either commune.
Margaux AOP is the largest communal appellation of the Haut-Médoc and is spread throughout five villages: Soussans, Margaux, Cantenac, Labarde and Arsac. The village of Margaux itself rests on thin, sandy gravel deposited over limestone, although the croupes in this appellation are typically shallow in comparison with those of St-Julien or Pauillac. Overall, the appellation contains a greater diversity of soil types than its northern counterparts, with more clay in the outlying areas. Margaux has a larger number of classified growths than any other commune (21) and includes one first growth, Château Margaux. Although Margaux’s second growths are often underperformers, the third growth Château Palmer is an excellent estate, commanding high prices. The wines of Margaux are often described as feminine, with an emphasis on floral bouquet, exotic character and finesse.